He plunked down $15,000 a piece for two of the newest models. In Toronto, Grant van Gameren is readying his new eatery, CrownCooks, for its February opening. Now some of the country’s cutting-edge restaurants, from Charcut Roast House in Calgary to Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, have installed Rationals. They can compose and chill up to 120 meals on mobile racks, then roll them into a Rational and “reheat them to the perfect temperature in exactly eight minutes.” Most of the units, which cost from $15,000 to $55,000, are sold to high-volume kitchens, although they do have a few well-heeled clients who have a smaller version at home (the most famous is the White House).Īt the Fairmont Pacific Rim in Vancouver this summer, executive chef Darren Brown took a visitor on a tour of his vast cooking empire, passing staff making chocolates, pickling cucumbers and checking on charcuterie before stopping in front of the Rational oven and declaring that it had revolutionized his kitchen, especially on catering jobs. The programmable Rational is popular in Europe, where more than 85 per cent of commercial kitchens use combi ovens, but the company is just beginning to make inroads in Canada. It can also bake a pizza, sear salmon and grill a steak at the same time. It’s called a combi oven, and it uses both dry heat and moist heat to cook large quantities of food precisely the same way. Electric stoves, gas ranges and convection ovens are being ripped out to make way for the Rational, a German-made beast that can bake, roast, broil, steam, grill, fry, dehydrate, poach and perfectly reheat food. There’s a revolution simmering in the kitchens of the nation’s restaurants, grocery stores, hospitals, hotels and even prisons.
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